A day of rest (or week)

Despite a few predictable sibling differences, cycling with Michael was fun. My little brother despite being a pretty much novice cyclist, donning his first pair of lycra shorts for this trip, lacking SPD cycling shoes that we consider pretty much essential, kept up with us (me). During the week with him we had some of our hilliest and windiest days. One day involved Nic sitting constantly in the lead doing ~14kmph with myself then Michael behind him trying to draft. My rather tall brother got some benefit from our efforts however this wind had gusts that made it feel as if our disc brakes had been suddenly applied. For the 5 days we had perfect camping weather and incredible views as we skirted the foothills of the Rhone Alpes. Our campsite prior to Grenoble was amazing. In a tiny village that we had to climb to it was in the grounds of a ruined chateau. As the sun set the ruins were lit up in tones of orange and yellow.We met up in Grenoble with Anais and Julien (above), the cycle tourists Nic had been approached by Toulouse. They took us on a tour of the city complete with glace (icecream of sorts of flavours) and beer. We were then taken back to their apartment where we were given Caprioska made by Anais' mum. They had very kindly offered to have us to stay or to do laundry there but with Michael in tow and the gite imminent we regretfully declined. Michael had given me a card promising us a dinner out in Europe for Christmas and we “cashed” it in at Grenoble at a restaurante recommended by the locals as suitable for hungry cyclists. Our initial order of an entree of 3 salads and a chacuterie platter (cold meats) plus mains that a included a raclette for the boys to share was “too much”. The waitress was right. The boys took 2 ½ hours to get through their huge chunk of raclette, a massive piece of cheese that was set up at the table under an element from which the melted cheese dripped off onto a plate that was then eaten with pototoe and cold meats. This provided immense amusement for a couple of women – one French and one Albanian. They returned the entertainment by inviting us out for a beer which we enjoyed before hopping on the tram back to the campsite. A wonderful night in Grenoble thank you to the generosity of the locals.

More complicated arrangements were in place for the following day as we wanted to meet again with my mother to offload the panniers into her car before the final push UP to the gite. Again through texting we managed to meet up fairly easily in a town just out of Grenoble. Nic had cleverly had several looks at the map and found us the route that did not climb to 1000m before dropping to 700m then climbing again. We enjoyed cycling through an amazing gorge and its tunnels. The final 4.5km up to the gite was continuous climbing including our first double chevron with a gradient of 9-13%. This felt suprisingly easy with no panniers! Nic still arrived about 10 minutes before me (and I was glad to arrive 10 mins before my brother who impressively managed the hill – the biggest of this trip).

It was an amazing feeling of relief to find Pam (Nic's mum), Mum and her travelling companion Anne all there. We had been looking forward to this time for about 1 month and it was brillant to all be there in one piece in a beautiful converted barn in a tiny alpine hamlet with all 3 parties arriving without getting lost. Nic was also very excited to be given a NZ cycle shirt from Pam, (I got kiwifruit chocolate!). Most exciting (apart from seeing family of course) were the clean towels and sheets!

On the road (or canal path)

We are onto 5 nights consecutively in our tent after having had our 2 night break from the elements in the chalet near Mont St Michel. We have also had 8 days of cycling in France (2 days in England) with a total distance covered since buying our bikes in Bristol – 775km! Even on our rest day in Mont St Michel we ended up cycling ~22km along a canal path then back along the causeway, very picturesque and we felt quite smug compared to those driving and parking in the immense car park out there. Photo is of Nic herding sheep towards Mont St Michel.

Nic has done a fantastic job on navigation helped no end by the Michellan map book we got at Costco for all of 9 pounds. We are tearing maps out as we cover them which is also quite satisfying. Not only have we not got lost, (although we do have slightly heated “discussions” on arrival to cities/towns when searching for campgrounds), but Nic manages to get us onto the scenic route. We have cycled through forests, on rural roads with no cars in sight, a 20km canal path into Renne (pictured below) where the only other traffic were cyclists (one of whom offered us a bed!), fishermen and walkers. Yesterday we came from Angers to Saumur along the Loire river and followed exclusive cycle paths a good distance. The slight increase in distance and decrease in speed, is definitely made up for by the pleasantness of the cycling.

Cycling the last 4 days has been slightly more comfortable for me since we followed signs to a bike shop in Coutance during our long wet day heading to Mont St Michel. I only brought one pair of bike shorts with me and have been craving some knee cover – mainly for warmth but partly to avoid cycle short lines that have already started appearing on my thighs. We were also looking for a bar bag as Evans in Bristol were unable to fit one to my bike due to oversized handlebars. We found some long, bright, French (how appropriate) blue bib(!) shorts on an incredible discount. Never worn bib shorts (thought they were only for posers and professional triathletes) but have been told there is no going back. They are definitely warmer and I am appreciating the brand new chamais although I am still developing sock lines (and we are still in the North of France). Bar bag is great for our daily pain and fromage. Nic also got himself an odometer as the Kathmandu one does not seem waterproof or particularly functional (although I think he is still carrying it with us??!!). Photo of me, canal lock and bib shorts.

Campgrounds are all an experience in themselves. We have stayed in 3 star and 4 star campgrounds as well as camping municipal which sometimes are not open! Best campground so far was the one where we weren't in the tent but in the chalet near Mont St Michel, what a surprise. The one last night is not too bad – 4 stars and 29 euro for 2 nights, but unlike 2 previous campgrounds the wifi (yes campgrounds with wifi!), is not free.

The campground at Chateaubriant, 2 nights ago looked very unattended when we arrived. I was not keen on staying as all the toilet blocks were locked with the only water available being from the washing up area. Nic was not put off as there was a nearby wooded area that he thought should suffice for any necessary trips and we could wash ourselves in the sinks. I gave him the benefit of the doubt (and the first wash) bringing him a pot of hot water to do his face only to be told that there was hot water on tap and he had had a bath – in a sink the size of a laundry tub. I followed suit with Nic standing guard at the door of the area (there was a father/son soccer – sorry, football – game being played on the field 100m away). Flashbacks to when my parents put us in the laundry tub aged 18 months, for our evening bath. Best thing about this pretty much deserted campsite, was that when the office was finally attended the next morning and we tried to pay, we were told that it was free as we had not been able to have a “douche”. Little did they know about exactly how much hot water we had managed to use.....

We have decided to spend 2 nights at our current campsite as our legs need a rest day (not to mention other parts...) I was keen to get another chalet but fortunately/unfortunately there is no rain excuse and it is a factor of 5 cheaper to camp. My only real issue with the tent is the yoga stretch and half sommersault required to get out of it at night when dealing with the effects of the French cider we have been enjoying with dinner. And being restricted to cooking with only 2 smallish pots (for 2 largish appetites). Waking this morning to a coffee being passed to me while still in my sleeping bag, a pain au chocolat (aka as petrol) within grasping distance and the river in sight does not get much better however.

Photo is of morning tea stop on route to Angers.

This trip probably sounds so far like what the majority of our friends would consider torture and not something to ever voluntarily commit to. Despite the challenges (and both of us would be bored if there wasn't some challenge involved) we are enjoying it and have had enough sublime moments on canal paths to make up for the cold and wet day(s). I have also been told (by Nic) that I am also developing some abdominal muscle definition which will likely be a once in a lifetime, unmissable experience!

Take me to the April "sun"....

The cheapest option for the overnight ferry was reclining seats. The “lounge” our seats were in was under occupied and the British army personnel who were already there had set the scene by rolling out sleeping bags between the seats. We followed suit in the aisles and managed to get some sleep. Woken at 5.30am and off the ferry by 6.30am rolling into Ouistreham on the Normandy coast. It was very cold and the couple of English cyclists also collecting their bikes, couldn't believe we were in short bike shorts. Nor could I after about 10km of freezing. Warmed slightly at a cafe with hot chocolate then back to cycling the desolate beaches. We cycled along the beaches of Sword, Juno and Gold, (British, Canadian, British invasion sites respectively), all landing sites on D-day. We stopped at the 360 degree cinema experience on the cliff above Arromanche. A haunting portrayal of how this area looked during the Allies invasion with contrasting with the tranquility of the coastline now. Looked down on the remains of the Mulberry harbour – an artificial harbour towed across by the Allies to unload supplies for the invasion.

I was nearly in tears watching footage of the bombings and the many wounded soldiers. Incredibly emotional to watch the evidence of such sacrifice and suffering. In my sleep deprived, cold and slightly hungry state, some footage of a kitten wandering a bombed building had me almost sobbing. Seems funny an animal suffering becomes almost more poignant after seeing so many shots of so much human injury.

We headed inland to Bayeux (as in the tapestry).After a little circling we found the camp ground. Pitched our tent and headed straight into town searching for shops and food. The rain started while in town, including some hail. Never a good feeling when you know you are sleeping a tent that night. Saw the Bayeux tapestry – made to record and display the feats of William the Conqueror sometime after 1066. It is 70m long and was pretty impressive. The audio guide was very comprehensive in explaining the scenes although it did not explain any of the very phallic figures in the border of some of the scenes.....

Despite being an accomplished in the art of “damping” having spent many New Zealand “summers” camping with my family, I hate wet tents. They are horrible to pack and difficult to stay dry climbing in and out of. That night it poured. The campground did not really have anywhere to cook and stay dry either making things tricky. Also adjusting to open air urinals....

The next morning it was brillant blue skies - thank god. We set to work drying things and eventually set off back to the Omaha beach. Our first stop was the American cemetery - both the exhibition and immaculate white crosses and stars of David pretty overwhelming. The exhibition also highlighted to me, (much less informed than Nic), that the Normandy invasion was only the beginning of the end of WWII (11 months from D day to VE day).

At the Point du Hoc, (a memorial to the rangers taking a German gun by scaling cliffs under fire from the beaches), we ran into the British army personnel from the ferry. Strange. They were visiting the Normandy sites as a learning exercise. You hope that the learning exercise of war in general might have occurred at a more profound and senior level.

On to Carentan then Perrier for stock piling of food before heading into a little village whose camping ground we nearly missed. Beautiful deserted site (like a local park) all to ourselves - except no running water working in the small shower block. Try explaining that to the local bar man in my non existent French. Some sort of communication happened (I mimed having a shower) and soon we had a manager, a plumber and most excitingly a hot shower (solar water heating!) All for 5.50 euro.

84km that day with the highest average speed of 18km/hr (good roads and lots of food).

Next day was grey skies and within 10km we had our coats on. Didn't take them off for the next 85km and hardly stopped for lunch. We were so relieved when we pulled into Pontorson at the end of the causeway by Mont Saint-Michel, the magical abbey that appears out of the quick sands. Splurged on a proper bed in a chalet - we needed to be dry and warm! In the last 7 days since getting the bikes we have done 440km - this is about 90km more than we thought we would be doing in a week (and that was with 2 rest days!) It is also without ANY proper training. We are pretty tired but think we are getting fitter.