We are onto 5 nights consecutively in our tent after having had our 2 night break from the elements in the chalet near Mont St Michel. We have also had 8 days of cycling in France (2 days in England) with a total distance covered since buying our bikes in Bristol – 775km! Even on our rest day in Mont St Michel we ended up cycling ~22km along a canal path then back along the causeway, very picturesque and we felt quite smug compared to those driving and parking in the immense car park out there. Photo is of Nic herding sheep towards Mont St Michel.
Nic has done a fantastic job on navigation helped no end by the Michellan map book we got at Costco for all of 9 pounds. We are tearing maps out as we cover them which is also quite satisfying. Not only have we not got lost, (although we do have slightly heated “discussions” on arrival to cities/towns when searching for campgrounds), but Nic manages to get us onto the scenic route. We have cycled through forests, on rural roads with no cars in sight, a 20km canal path into Renne (pictured below) where the only other traffic were cyclists (one of whom offered us a bed!), fishermen and walkers. Yesterday we came from Angers to Saumur along the Loire river and followed exclusive cycle paths a good distance. The slight increase in distance and decrease in speed, is definitely made up for by the pleasantness of the cycling. 
Cycling the last 4 days has been slightly more comfortable for me since we followed signs to a bike shop in Coutance during our long wet day heading to Mont St Michel. I only brought one pair of bike shorts with me and have been craving some knee cover – mainly for warmth but partly to avoid cycle short lines that have already started appearing on my thighs. We were also looking for a bar bag as Evans in Bristol were unable to fit one to my bike due to oversized handlebars. We found some long, bright, French (how appropriate) blue bib(!) shorts on an incredible discount. Never worn bib shorts (thought they were only for posers and professional triathletes) but have been told there is no going back. They are definitely warmer and I am appreciating the brand new chamais although I am still developing sock lines (and we are still in the North of France). Bar bag is great for our daily pain and fromage. Nic also got himself an odometer as the Kathmandu one does not seem waterproof or particularly functional (although I think he is still carrying it with us??!!). Photo of me, canal lock and bib shorts.
Campgrounds are all an experience in themselves. We have stayed in 3 star and 4 star campgrounds as well as camping municipal which sometimes are not open! Best campground so far was the one where we weren't in the tent but in the chalet near Mont St Michel, what a surprise. The one last night is not too bad – 4 stars and 29 euro for 2 nights, but unlike 2 previous campgrounds the wifi (yes campgrounds with wifi!), is not free.
The campground at Chateaubriant, 2 nights ago looked very unattended when we arrived. I was not keen on staying as all the toilet blocks were locked with the only water available being from the washing up area. Nic was not put off as there was a nearby wooded area that he thought should suffice for any necessary trips and we could wash ourselves in the sinks. I gave him the benefit of the doubt (and the first wash) bringing him a pot of hot water to do his face only to be told that there was hot water on tap and he had had a bath – in a sink the size of a laundry tub. I followed suit with Nic standing guard at the door of the area (there was a father/son soccer – sorry, football – game being played on the field 100m away). Flashbacks to when my parents put us in the laundry tub aged 18 months, for our evening bath. Best thing about this pretty much deserted campsite, was that when the office was finally attended the next morning and we tried to pay, we were told that it was free as we had not been able to have a “douche”. Little did they know about exactly how much hot water we had managed to use.....
We have decided to spend 2 nights at our current campsite as our legs need a rest day (not to mention other parts...) I was keen to get another chalet but fortunately/unfortunately there is no rain excuse and it is a factor of 5 cheaper to camp. My only real issue with the tent is the yoga stretch and half sommersault required to get out of it at night when dealing with the effects of the French cider we have been enjoying with dinner. And being restricted to cooking with only 2 smallish pots (for 2 largish appetites). Waking this morning to a coffee being passed to me while still in my sleeping bag, a pain au chocolat (aka as petrol) within grasping distance and the river in sight does not get much better however.
Photo is of morning tea stop on route to Angers.
This trip probably sounds so far like what the majority of our friends would consider torture and not something to ever voluntarily commit to. Despite the challenges (and both of us would be bored if there wasn't some challenge involved) we are enjoying it and have had enough sublime moments on canal paths to make up for the cold and wet day(s). I have also been told (by Nic) that I am also developing some abdominal muscle definition which will likely be a once in a lifetime, unmissable experience!
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